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The only thing you really need to remember is to plug in when you can, and enjoy the ride no matter what the forecast says. Only when a battery drops click below about 70% of its initial capacity – a threshold that most packs do not approach for a long time – is it typically deemed to be nearing the end of its primary automotive life. Vehicles with more than 150,000 miles on the odometer continue to operate admirably, and high-mileage examples frequently display 83 to 95 percent remaining capacity.

The median health status is close to 85% at eight or nine years. According to recent analyzes of large fleets, the average annual degradation is between 1.8 and 2.3 percent. So go ahead – sign up for that ski trip in January and plan that summer road trip. Instead of viewing it as a chore, consider it a gentle guideline. You won’t be replacing filters or monitoring fluid levels. In a similar vein, there’s no need to let it reach zero before recharging.

The closest thing to a maintenance routine you’ll come across is keeping the state of charge in that comfortable 20 percent to 80 percent sweet spot for everyday driving. The charging procedure itself is the main interaction you will have. Whether you’re driving through a winter freeze or a summer heatwave, the battery’s thermal management system automatically regulates the temperature. Instead of a complex schedule of fluid replacements, the battery operates on a set of smart, self-managing principles.

You won’t be checking fluid levels or swapping filters. There’s nothing special you have to do each day. The liberating thing, though, is that you don’t need to worry about this. You don’t need to do anything special every day. This system is so clever that it actively protects the cells for you. Avoid leaving the battery at 100% for extended periods of time, especially in hot weather. First, let’s talk about charging. Just make an effort to keep it fully charged for a week before parking it.

Let’s start by discussing charging. Although it’s a sealed system, some EVs do have a liquid cooling loop for the battery. It is not necessary for you to alter it. Next, think about the cooling system. The fluid level under the hood does not need to be checked. You do not need to check the fluid level under the hood. It’s a closed loop that hardly ever requires maintenance. A dealer might check it during annual service, but even that is often just a quick glance at a computer screen.

It’s a closed loop that rarely, if ever, needs attention. You give your approval, go to bed, and wake up to a car that is a little more efficient or has a longer range.